58 Things You Need To Know Before Planting Iris Bulbs In Zone 7

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58 Things You Should Know About When To Plant Iris Bulbs Zone 7 | K-State Research and Extension

• Fertilizer: Japanese iris are heavy feeders. Depending on your soil a liberal application of balanced fertilizer for acid loving plants (Rhododendron, Camellia) in the spring just before or after bloom is beneficial. Most soils with heavy watering will usually need more nitrogen (Ammonium sulfate) applied. Do not apply fertilizers to new transplants. - Source: Internet
• Irises are popular, easy-to-grow “old-fashioned” perennials. They are attractive plants for beds and borders but also make lovely cut flowers. Irises attract pollinators such as butterflies and hummingbirds. Learn more about growing and caring for your iris flowers. - Source: Internet
• Fall – Trim back foliage to within 4-5 inches of rhizomes. Remove shriveled or dead leaves. Plant all new iris bulbs. - Source: Internet
• In warm climates, the bulbs may begin to produce foliage in late fall and early winter. Flowers will follow in spring. In colder areas you will not see any foliage until spring. Feel free to cut the flowers for bouquets. This will not harm the bulbs. - Source: Internet
• Prepare the Soil Iris grows best in well-draining, fertile soil that is neutral to slightly acidic. Take extra care to make sure the soil is well-drained, as irises may rot if they soak in wet soil over the winter. Loosen the soil using a tiller or garden fork to a depth of about 12 inches. An optional step is to thoroughly mix in 2 to 4 inches of compost with the soil. This can be helpful in improving the drainage of dense soils at the same time it improves soil fertility. - Source: Internet
• Distance Apart: Iris are generally planted 12 to 24 inches apart. Close planting gives an immediate effect but closely planted iris will need to be thinned often. Plants spaced further apart will need less frequent thinning. - Source: Internet
• To get a second season of blooms, remove the spent iris flowers, leaving behind as much of the stem and foliage as possible. Allow the remaining foliage to continue growing until it withers and yellows. During the summer months, while the bulbs are dormant, the soil should be kept quite dry. - Source: Internet
• Bulbs, corms, and tubers planted in spring will produce blooms in summer. This can be a challenge in regions with short growing seasons. In United States Department of Agriculture zone 4, the best time to plant summer blooming plants is after the date of the last frost or, in general, April to June. - Source: Internet
• There is no simple way to approach a clump of overgrown iris but to just jump in and tackle it. Start by digging the entire clump. The good news is, the plants have a fairly shallow root system so digging deep is not needed. If conditions are dry, be sure to water one or two days before to moisten the soil for easier digging. - Source: Internet
• Watering is most necessary to get the iris started. Their root system is capable of storing water once established. Like any other flowering plant, Irises will appreciate sufficient water during the growing season, especially to bloom well. It takes a lot of energy for them to bloom, most of which is stored within their tubers, but a simple watering can make the difference between a mediocre flower display and a spectacular one. - Source: Internet
• Mixing a well-balanced fertilizer with the soil when planting will get them off to a good start. After planting, additional fertilization isn’t needed. If the iris is growing well, give them an annual topdressing in early spring each year. - Source: Internet
• There are a number of different types of Iris with a dizzying range of colors, flower forms, and heights. The most familiar type is the bearded iris. Depending on the type of Iris, they grow from either a rhizome or bulb. Dutch Irises are considered bulbous types. - Source: Internet
• With a minimum of care they will reward you with beautiful blooms year after year. Here are a few suggestions for growing Iris. Proper care is simple and quite easy. Treat your garden and yourself to some of these fine irises flowers. - Source: Internet
• Water: Japanese irises do not like to dry out. Constant moisture will reward you with healthy plants and larger blooms. Wet in the spring and keep moist all summer. They do very well near water (this is where they naturally grow) or where the water table is high. The crown of the plant needs to be above the water line. - Source: Internet
• Choose a Location Choose a garden spot that receives full sun. While they can tolerate partial sun, bearded irises will not bloom as prolifically without abundant sunlight. With shorter types of iris, also give consideration to where they are positioned within the garden bed—avoid locations where they will be shaded by other plants. - Source: Internet
• A note about hardy bulbs that bloom in summer. Many of these should still be lifted and stored over winter, as they may be affected by boggy, frozen soil and extended freezes. Simply store them in a cool, dry location and replant them when the soil is workable in early spring. - Source: Internet
• If you grow bearded irises, you may have noticed that over the years, your clumps of iris begin flowering less and become crowded. Despite being relatively carefree, bearded iris, and other irises that grow from rhizomes like Siberian and Japanese iris, should be divided every three to five years when flowering begins to decline, or the clumps become crowded. This will help keep the irises blooming and help prevent issues with iris borer and soft rot. - Source: Internet
• The iris is a beautiful flowering plant with over 250 different species. Its name comes from a Greek word meaning rainbow due to the many variations and colors that it produces. Plants are tolerate of abusive growth conditions, drought-resistant , and grow heartily throughout the northern hemisphere. - Source: Internet
• As a general rule, iris should be divided about every three to five years. Without timely dividing, the plants simply outgrow their allotted space in the garden. Normally, the bloom quality of the clump decreases when the plants become overcrowded. - Source: Internet
• Tip Be aware that bulb fertilizer, while encouraging healthy root growth, may be based on bone meal, which can attract rodents and other animals to dig up newly planted rhizomes. Compost is a better choice than bone meal when amending soil in preparation for irises. The Spruce / Jayme Burrows - Source: Internet
• It’s a magical time in the garden when bearded iris flowers unfurl their pencil-slim buds to reveal a kaleidoscope of color, beginning as early as March in warmer regions. Depending on the type of bearded iris, they can be in bloom into June. Some types even rebloom in late summer and fall. - Source: Internet
• This doesn’t give some of the bigger producers much time to flower, so some species such as dahlias, Asiatic lilies, and gladiolus should be started indoors 6 weeks before planting outside. Even in cold zones, you can plant some of the glorious warm season bloomers with a little preplanning. Some bulbs to try might be: - Source: Internet
• In many ways the English Iris, also known as I. xiphiodes and I. anglica, is a classic iris: often dark blue with yellow marks. - Source: Internet
• Dividing clumps of bearded iris plants every three to four years in late summer is an easy way to propagate new plants and improve the flowering of the original plant. Dig up the clump of rhizomes under the plant and separate the rhizomes by hand or with a sharp knife, leaving a few leaves on each rhizome. After trimming the leaves back to about a third of their original height, put the divided rhizomes in a shady area for a week for the cut surfaces to heal. Then you can replant (or give away) the new plants. - Source: Internet
• Iris plants have few problems, but the iris borer is their worst enemy. The adult female moth lays her eggs at the base of the leaf blades where they overwinter, then hatch in late spring and begin eating their way up the leaf blades. This is about the only time you can easily control this insect as it then reverses and bores into the central rhizome. Once in the rhizome, they are not easily controlled and infected portions must be cut out. Be aware that feeding larvae can cause serious bacterial rot issues within the tubers that may linger season after season if not dealt with appropriately. - Source: Internet
• It’s easy to understand why people are so passionate about bearded irises. This very diverse group of plants offers gorgeous flowers. In addition to their long bloom time, bearded irises come in an incredible variety of colors and patterns. These plants get their name from a patch of soft bristles on the lower petals of the flowers. - Source: Internet
• These numbers stand for the amounts of phosphorus and potassium in the mixture. Phosphorus and potassium are the key nutrients in root and bloom production. Another dose of fertilizer at half strength after fall dividing and planting will slow release throughout the winter and early spring. Though fertilizing can only help, it is certainly not necessary for growing a garden of beautiful irises. - Source: Internet
• Siberian iris remain one of the easier iris plants to grow; some beds continue blooming for decades without any division or insecticide, making a large sweep of blue, lavender, white or one of the new multicolors. Because Siberian are “bridge” bloomers, including early and late, we have included some of each in our selections. Nonetheless, they tend to bloom around the same time as bearded iris, not as late as the bulb irises. - Source: Internet
• How to plant – The most common mistake made with bearded iris is planting too deeply. First make a 3-inch deep depression about 6 inches in diameter. In the center make a small, fist-sized mound of soil. The rhizome is placed on top of the mound so that 1/3 of the rhizome will be above the soil. Spread the roots out to support the plant, replace the soil, firmly packed around the roots to remove air pockets and water liberally. - Source: Internet
• Where to plant – for best growth and bloom, iris need at least half a day of full sun. We’ve had success with plants receiving morning sun until 2:00 pm, then afternoon high shade. On the farm our irises receive 100 percent sun. Older, historic cultivars have been observed to tolerate more shade than some of the newer cultivars. - Source: Internet
• When planting iris, dig a hole about four inches deep with a small mound in the middle of the hole. Place the rhizome on top of the mound and let the roots fall down the sides of the mound. After spreading the roots out, cover them with soil, so the rhizome is just slightly exposed. Do not plant the rhizome too deep because this can lead to issues with root rot. - Source: Internet
• Iris flowers have three primary structures, and the names of varieties are usually inspired by the unique characteristics of one of the parts. For example, the ‘Fringe of Gold’ flower has drooping “falls” that are white-edged (or picoteed) in yellow. The upright “standards” are solid yellow. And the tiny fuzzy “beard” in the middle is white and yellow. Here are a few different iris varieties to grow. - Source: Internet
• SANITATION. The main key to iris borer prevention is the removal and destruction of the previous year’s dead foliage. In the Midwest, this should be done before April 1st. This sanitation practice will reduce the problem by destroying overwintering eggs in that leaf residue. Burn, bury, or throw all foliage removed into the trash. - Source: Internet
• Sit back and wait until next May for a wonderful reward of iris blossoms. Enjoy one of the area’s easiest to grow perennials. There is nothing finer than a graceful iris blossom. - Source: Internet
• The iris is a perennial that grows from a bulb which produces creeping rhizomes that spread underground for nourishment. The stem is long and erect producing flowers with both solid and variegated colors. Flowers are fan-shaped with one or more six-lobed symmetrical petals that fall slightly downward with an upright center section. - Source: Internet
• Caution: Do not use bone meal. This has the same effect as lime and can kill Japanese irises. Also, do not fertilize newly planted (or transplanted) Japanese iris as this can burn the roots. - Source: Internet
• There are a host of cold-hardy bulbs. Many spring-blooming varieties actually require a chilling period to break the dormancy of the embryonic plant inside the bulb. But a word of caution… many of the fall-planted bulbs are not hardy when confronted with extremely deep freezes. Culture is also a factor when planting bulbs in cold climates. Preparing the soil and enhancing drainage and fertility can help ensure color displays from bulbs. - Source: Internet
• When to plant – The best time to plant iris is late summer through early fall. We recommend planting from mid-July until mid-October depending on your location. Those in southern climates can usually push the deadlines and plant into November. Spring planting is discouraged but can be done under abnormal circumstances. Spring planting can often result in lack of bloom for a season or two and slow establishment. - Source: Internet
• Iris should be planted so the tops of the rhizomes are exposed and the roots are spread out, facing downward in the soil. In very light soils or in extremely hot climates, covering the rhizome with one inch of soil may be desirable. Firm the soil around each rhizome and then water to help settle the soil. A common mistake is to plant iris too deeply. - Source: Internet
• Late July through mid August is the best time to plant, move or divide iris. Iris is one of the most popular perennials in the garden and easy to grow. Although they provide pleasure for many years with little care, periodic dividing is an important cultural practice for maintaining plant health. - Source: Internet
• After planting, water your iris and keep the soil moist (but not too wet) until new leaves begin to emerge. Some people will mulch newly transplanted iris in late fall with straw or pine needles to help prevent heaving. If you decide to do this, make sure to remove the mulch in early spring so the soil can dry out (as you may have guessed by now, this will help prevent rot). - Source: Internet
• Fertilization – Modern iris varieties may need more fertilizer than older varieties, due to the increased number and size of blossoms. We fertilize in mid-to-late April with bone meal, superphosphate, or a fertilizer low in nitrogen such as 6-10-10. Fertilizers high in nitrogen tend to cause bacterial rot and lush-but-weak foliage growth. When selecting fertilizers for irises, be sure that the 2nd and 3rd numbers are bigger than the 1st. - Source: Internet
• Inspect the Rhizomes When iris rhizomes are purchased commercially, they will often arrive with a good healthy rhizome section with smaller roots spreading out from the sides, and a section of leaves attached on one end, often cut into a fan shape. (If you have lifted and divided an established patch of irises, your divided pieces should also have this configuration.) Before planting, inspect the rhizomes and reject any that are notably mushy or dessicated. With rhizomes you have newly dug up and divided, make sure there are no pieces with borer damage; these sections can be clipped away with sharp pruners. The Spruce / Jayme Burrows - Source: Internet
• An advantage over the bearded iris, the English iris blooms later in the year, flowering in June and July. BlomsBulbs sells a mixture of what it called English iris (iris latifolia) bulbs that includes purple, white, blue and speckled iris. It says that, once planted, these iris should never be moved. - Source: Internet
• Dutch iris (iris hollandica) have orchid-like flowers with silky petals and bloom later than bearded iris. Flower colors range from pale blue and lemon through deep purple, bronze, rose and gold. Dutch iris are popular with floral designers because they are dramatic, long-lasting and easy to arrange in a vase. - Source: Internet
• Plant bearded iris in a sunny spot in late summer. Bearded irises need good air circulation so give them room to breathe. Plant them a minimum of 16 to 18 inches apart (less space for dwarf irises and more for tall beaded iris varieties). - Source: Internet
• The scarlet blooms of this bearded iris variety make it stand out in the garden. The petals fade into orange and gold tones toward the center of the bloom. The outer edges of the petals become such a dark red that they almost look chocolate brown in places. - Source: Internet
• Pests: Slugs and snails can be a problem. Either pick them off by hand or use slug bait if damage is seen. Thrips and iris borer can be controlled with a systemic insecticide. We recommend Orthene, or Cygon 2E; follow manufactures instruction. - Source: Internet
• Perhaps no other iris is as influenced by good culture as Japanese iris. Demanding in their needs but if met they will reward you with tall robust plants and larger blooms. Hardy in zones 4-9. - Source: Internet
• If seedpods aren’t removed after the plant blooms, seedlings may choke the surrounding soil. Seed formation also saps the energy needed by the rhizomes, roots, and leaves. It’s best to deadhead your bearded irises once the flowers fade. - Source: Internet
• When they bloom: most bloom in the spring. Some bloom in June. Japanese iris bloom early summer to midsummer. - Source: Internet
• Spring planted bulbs are a zone 4 gardener’s best friend because they are planted after danger of frost or planted in containers in a warm area for a jump start on growth. It is the fall-planted, summer bloomers that are of concern in cold climates. These are going to experience some extreme temperatures, rainfall, and ice. Proper depth and soil preparation can help keep these viable as can thick layers of organic mulch. Some of the most cold-hardy bulbs are: - Source: Internet
• When dividing iris, you want to lift the entire clump with a spade or digging fork. Once you have the clump lifted, remove as much soil as possible from the roots and rhizomes. If your iris are growing in heavier soils, it may be helpful to use a hose to remove the soil. - Source: Internet
• Pests: Slugs and snails; bait if damage is seen. Thrips and iris borer can be controlled with a systemic insecticide (i.e.: Merit or Orthene) following manufacturers’ instructions. - Source: Internet
• The iris borer life cycle begins with eggs laid by the borer moth in leaf litter at the base of the plant. Cleanup will keep those eggs from hatching and sending little borers into the rhizomes. Rarely will the borers kill the iris, but they will make them less productive. - Source: Internet
• Iris bulbs should be planted in the fall for spring blooms. For best results, blooms need at least a half day of full sun, but colors will be more vibrant if they receive a full day of direct sunlight. Soil should be well-drained at all times. Tip: After plants finish blooming, cut off the entire flowering stem, leaving just the leaves. This will build up nutrients for their dormant winter period. - Source: Internet
• You’ll want to plant your rhizomes relatively soon after dividing (it’s okay to wait for a few days). Bearded irises will grow best in full sun locations that have at least 6-8 hours of sunlight a day. They also prefer to grow in well-drained soils. If the soils stay too wet, this may lead to the rhizome rotting. - Source: Internet
• Soil requirements: Japanese irises prefer a rich, loose soil with ample organic matter. An addition of well-aged manure and compost will help in water retention as well as adding nutrients. The soil PH should be slightly acid, ideally between 5.5 to 6.5. - Source: Internet

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